Instead, it’s all in the details, and here is everything you need to know about spring landscaping in Victoria, BC.

Getting started…with a rake

The first thing you need to do come spring is one of the easiest tasks–though it can take awhile. Get that rake ready for getting your spring lawn into action. Spring raking can take care of controlling thatch, as well as help it remove dead blades of grass.

Take a good look at the lawn

Glance over the lawn and see if there are matted patches where the blades are stuck together. If so, this could be snow mold, a disease that can easily be remedied by a light raking. In other cases, it might be experiencing compaction, especially if there is moss growing. To take care of this, do a lawn aeration; check in at your local lawn and garden store to see if they have aerators for rent (they likely do). Moss plants also might mean acidity, so restore the pH balance by liming your soil.

Get seeding

If you have actual patches of grass missing, you might also have to lay down some grass seed. When you seed, first apply a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer, followed by a quick-release nitrogen fertilizer five weeks after it germinates.

Figure out fertilizing

There are many ways to fertilize lawns in Victoria, BC, but we recommend going as organic as possible. If you choose this route, use compost and mulching mowers. But if chemical fertilization is a must, then don’t use too much, otherwise you might end up with an excess of disease or weeds.

Are herbicides handy?

You only need to use herbicides if you get a lot of weeds and crabgrass. Preemergent herbicides work before the seedlings can emerge, thereby stopping the problem before it starts. Because crabgrass comes around in spring, you can also combat it first in the fall. So this is actually something that should be done earlier on, before the snow (or cooler weather) hit.

Lawn mowing 101

Though it seems easy enough, there are a few lawn mowing tips to keep in mind and your lawn looking its best. When you mow it, use a pattern: work back and forth, move briskly. If you have obstacles like tree stumps, go in two directions (around one way, then around the other). When going down the rows, always overlap the area you have mowed by a half width, which will reduce anything you may have missed the first time. Finally, when you’re done,  use a lawn rake to gather any excess clippings, then clean the lawnmower blades with water and add a dab of oil to prevent any possible rusting.

Add some edging

If you have some extra time to spend outside, consider adding some edging for a few different benefits. First, it simply looks good, giving a nice border to your yard. Edging is frequently as simple enough as a shallow trench cut at a lawn’s edge. There are also many products sold commercially, from plastic to metal to wood items installed in the ground between lawn and garden. From a non-aesthetic standpoint, it also delivers practical benefits. For example, grasses will stop spreading into gardens, gardens wont spill into your lawn, and when you are mowing the lawn, you can reduce having to use a trimmer to hit the edges.

Make your entrance exciting

If you have had the same ol’ entrance way for years, take the springtime as a chance to add a bit of something extra to bring out its beauty. Why not bring a little old-fashioned freshness to your pathway and door? Try a  flagstone pathway and a vine-covered picket fence. Or perhaps you want to make it a little more classic, with a cobblestone path surrounded by foliage that picks up the color of the stones. Porches can use a little zest with planters arranged symmetrically around the door.

Update your driveway

If you want to update your driveway, you have a couple of options. Going the hardscape route, you can add fences or walls. Walls, for example, are lovely when they are either parallel the driveway for its length or meet at a perpendicular angle at the entrance. From a softscape standpoint, consider flower beds, shrubs, and ornamental trees. Softscape options are pretty endless, with flowers and foliage in small or large areas around your lawn. Try planting colourful annuals along the sides of your driveway, or adding a water garden closeby.

If you have recently completed any landscaping, you may discover that excess run-off from the melting snow might end up causing some wash out on your walkway, patio, or drive way. This may be caused depending on how well your yard was landscaped, so you want to be sure that you have a top notch team doing the job. The grading plays a large role in this, as well as how the landscaping was installed initially.

Indicators of wash out will mean that you have to try to direct any form of the moisture away from the walkway, patio, or driveway. Instead, you have to divert it in the other direction. Try to build an area that will drain to an area on your property. Make sure that you choose an area that will not end up causing other problems. If you’re unsure of how to do it or where to begin, call a professional landscaper to work on it and create proper grading, proper drainage, and solve the task at hand before it becomes more complex.

Weather can certainly do a number on unfinished jobs, so if you have any form of recent uncompleted landcaping, there are some negative aspects to heavy snowfall. Heavy snow fall means that you will have to wait longer to restart the landscaping in the warmer months. Sometimes, companies will decide to finish and complete past construction jobs and landscapes before starting on the new ones. If you plan to do it yourself, be sure not to rush into starting it while the ground is still filled with moisture. This will mean that it will take longer to get out the kinks and clean up the mess as it does to finish the project. Furthermore, wet landscapes do not provide the proper grading, and it will not have an effective result.

Conversely, heavy snow fall will help recent projects. Because the sub-surface settling will be better distributed, it should increase the process and the speed of the settling as a whole. Because new landscapes need that extra time to settle, the soft surface will allow the soil and the foundation to settle completely, and the winter will let it remain undisturbed.

When choosing a landscape design, there are many shrubs and trees that benefit from all of the extra moisture. Trees that flourish include willow trees – they thrive on the excess water sources, and helps them grow. Others, such as birch trees, on the other and, do not. Regardless of the type of tree or shrub, landscapers and homeowners want to be sure that there is no water settling or draining into the tree wells. This means that the soil is saturated, and the tree won’t grow as well or, eventually, drown. This water needs to be diverted in order for the best success. You can also dig a small trench away from the trees or shrubs so the water flows elsewhere.

Snow is definitely a beautiful feature to any form of landscaping, and no one can deny the beauty of a gentle snow cover over their trees and lawn. Because it is such a good insulator, it actually keeps the cold air temperatures from harming the plants, making it also beneficial. It is only when the snow is very wet that it can cause a problem, causing plants to become too moist, or, if the snow is too heavy, possibly bend or break. If this occurs, lightly bat the branches underneath, which will help keep the snow weight from breaking any of the branches.

Keep it Classy

Landscaping can easily overwhelm your home, so definitely keep in mind to avoid letting it take over. When you are choosing the different varieties of shrubs and the types of trees that you want to add, look for ones that will do your yard justice. In addition, when you choose them, select trees and shrubs that are bred and designed to grow a particular size. If you choose an oversized one for your space, you might end up spending an awful lot of time pruning and working in the yard.

Make a Plan

Remember not to start landscaping without a plan in mind. Use this strategy even if you plan to do the actual landscaping in stages. You don’t have to go overly into detail (for example, drawing out each and every shrub). One thing you should be aware of is where your actual hardscaping needs to be done, and to definitely allow room for other workers, work vehicles, delivery trucks, and those other areas.

Mix it Up

Planting too much of the same thing can look tiresome, boring, and well, isn’t a good plan for the long term. Why not? Eventually these trees will stop flowering, and the thing is, if you plant them altogether, they are going to (a) stop flowering at the same time during the seasons and (b) more than likely last of equal lengths, making it more work for you all at once. Make it last and make it beautiful by adding a lot of variety to your yard.

Let Go of the Lawn

Huge lawns can really take a lot of work. They also need a lot of care, water, maintenance, and don’t look as gorgeous as if defined by foliage around it. Consider reducing the total size of your lawn, and instead, opting for landscape beds around and within it that feature perennials, shrubs, and trees that are low maintenance and look great, too.

Plant Away From the House

Never plant trees too close in proximity to the house. You want to be sure that you leave space for them to grow, and so the roots don’t take over parts of the homestead, such as clogging the pipes. In addition, don’t plant any forms of species that may end up overtaking the yard or parts of the home’s proportions. Finally, don’t plant too close to the road – it might be owned by the city or region you live in.

Go Three-Dimensional

When you are looking at planting beds, don’t install ones that are just one-dimensional. Instead, plant in layers, with low-growing plants that conceal the bottoms of the taller plants that are situated behind them. The smaller plants also bring some color and texture into the mix, creating that perfect balance of different heights, weights, and vibrancy.

• string
• 4 stakes
• garden hose
• tamping tool and rubber mallet
• saw, hammer and nails
• protective eyeware and gloves
• flagstone (about 2 inches thick)
• sand
• broom
• 2×4 lumber, 12 foot plank and scrap lumber
• landscape fabric
• a chisel with a wide cutting surface (brick set), mini-sledgehammer
• carpenter’s level
• tape measure

You may also want to acquire a back brace, goggles, and gloves for your own protection.

In layman’s terms, laying a flagstone patio is no different than putting together an oversized puzzle. It’ll take you a little careful lifting, some basic know-how, and a couple of days.

This is how you do it:

First, pick a level spot where you are going to lay your flagstone patio. Starting on level ground makes it much easier, and, when you’re done, you’ll have a completely level patio, without having to worry about fixing it.

Before you do anything else, measure where you are going to be putting your patio. You want to measure the area. If you are making a patio that is 12 feet by 12 feet, measure out the sides and mark the lengths with a string tied between two stakes. Your square (or rectangle, if that is what you are building), should look perfect.  Take a step back and make sure it does.

Take a moment to measure the two diagonals. If they are of equal length, you’re golden.

Take the spade and plunge it down 5 inches deep all around the perimeter of the square that you just plotted with the strings. Then, pick up your digging shovel, and excavate the sod and soil down to a depth of 5 inches as well.

Take one of your scrap pieces of plank wood (a 12 foot one) onto the ground so it runs the length of the square on the left side. Put the level on the plank and make sure it is, indeed, level. Chances are it wont be exactly level yet, so if it is not, scrape away dirt on either side to get it there. Repeat in the middle and on the right side.

Put the plank down so it runs the other away across the square, and repeat the process, fixing the levelness if needed.

Next, moisten the soil that is in the excavated area using a garden hose. Tamp it down with the tamping tool, then set landscape fabric over the base. This will help keep weeds at bay later on.

Following that, you will frame the square with a form, using 2 by 4s that are nailed together to create the 12 x 12 shape. The form will act as a frame and contain the sand that you’ll later put down.

Shovel two inches of sand over top of the landscape fabric. Cut additional 2 by 4 scraps to a length of 12 feet and 2 inches, to act as a screed.

Starting at one end of the square, slide the screed across the full 12 foot length of the sand layer. It will help level the sand, with excess going to the lower areas, and the surface will be even.

Next it is time to lay the flagstone. After applying the sand, the base should sit two inches below the ground.

Begin in a corner, and place the individual stone pieces onto the sand base, fitting them together like a puzzle. Try your best to keep the gaps to a minimum.

As you go along, tamp each stone down with a rubber mallet. Next, use the carpenter’s level, and continually check for levelness between stones. If a stone is resting too low, take it out and add more sand to it. Similarly, if it is too high, remove some sand that it is over top of.

If you find that any of the stones are too large for the space, just keep it where it is and trace with a pencil where it can later be cut. Remove the stone and score with the brick sit and mini-sledge hammer. Repeat on the other wide, and it should break precisely and easily.

Once all of the stones have been put in place, top with additional sand. Next, take the broom and sweep the sand to fill in the cracks.

Finally, remove the 2 x 4 form, and fill in the canal it has made with sand. Tamp firmly.

Do note that flagstone laid in sand will have to be re-adjusted as settling occurs.

Here are six common errors in landscape design that everyone should be aware of.

Lacking a plan

The best way to dream up your designer landscape is to have a plan. Sure, some things evolve as time goes on – adding to a garden or planting a large plant in the yard – but once the basics are there we should definitely know where to move on to next.

To start, you ideally want to draw a plan for your whole yard, or at least a rough plan for an area of it.

Thinking of all of the seasons

It is easy to bring colour into the landscape design during the spring and summer seasons, however, it is just as easy to forget about the colder months. The thing it, these colder months have loads of vibrancy to give us – we just have to think about it and execute it. Maximize fall color by using foliage that works well in these months. In the winter, don’t forget about the many trees and shrubs that shine through the coldest months.

Forgetting to irrigate

In the heat of the summer, many of us get away on vacation, but what happens to our gardens and lawns while we’re away? Unless you can rope in family, friends, or neighbours to help out, don’t let all of your plants and your lawn wilt away while you’re away. Instead, you can install a cost-efficient irrigation system in your home landscape design. What’s even better, you’ll realize how much you love it when you can use it when you’re home, too.

Working with what you don’t have

It is easy to dream about what we want, but sometimes we have to work with what we have. For example, if a rocky yard, a yard loaded with sun, or clay instead of dirt is what fills your yard, you have to work with it – not against it. Instead of fighting it or wishing you had “their” yard, go with what you are dealt with. Keep frustration at by by knowing what you’ll be working with and what options you have for success.

Being unprepared

If you lack the tools, how are you ever going to get the job done? You’ll never get the chores done if you (a) don’t have the gear or (b) don’t keep it in a place that is easily accessible. If you’re unorganized, you’ll find that tending to your yard can get a little tedious. Consider building or investing in a storage system, like a shed. Once you have adequate storage, it is the first step to becoming more organized and getting the job done.

Forgoing functionality

It’s true: when you think about the word landscaping, generally aesthetics, beauty, and curb appeal come to mind before anything else. Functionality, though is something to definitely keep in mind. In fact, it should trump what we put on aesthetics. Remember there has to be a balance of the beauty with everything else: the design should be safe, useful, and convenient, as well.

Once these two structures are in place and ready to go, you’ll use a pump to keep water recirculating from the pond to the top of the waterfall.

When you’re choosing the design for your waterfall, consider the main details. Mostly, you’ll want to figure out the height first. We’ll tell you this first: large waterfalls and large ponds equals large sums of money.

But the good thing is, there is a cost-efficient way to solve this.

An alternative to spending the big bucks is to use pre-cast concrete forms that mimic stone for the cascading structure. Not only are they compact, but also easy to install. But that isn’t really the best way to be cost-efficient. The best answer? Natural rocks. And this is how you do it:

To build your cost-efficient outdoor waterfall, you’ll need to gather a mixture of sizes and shapes of rocks, and about 30 in total. Some should be large and flat. You’ll also need half-inch tubing, a large plastic flower pot, a submersible pump with a 6 foot cord, pond liner (about 7 inches deep, and 2 feet in diameter), a level, a shovel, sand and a hose. Any items that you don’t already have on hand would be available at a major hardware chain.

Next, hire a certified electrician install a ground fault circuit interrupter outlet close to where the pond and waterfall will be. It should be within the length of the cord to an outlet.

After that,  remove any weeds from the area and make sure it’s level. Then dig out the hole, putting the liner inside.

Make the depth of your pond’s hole about the same depth of the preformed liner. Since you want to make a snug fit, try to make the diameter of the hole match that of the preformed liner as closely as possible. If you make it too large, fill it in with sand.

The sand will also be used at the bottom of the hole. This is because sand floors will provide the malleablity needed to change the height of the liner. Put about an inch of sand so the liner is an inch above the ground; that way, dirt and debris won’t get in as easily.

Put the liner in the hole for the pond. Use the level to make sure it’s (you guessed it!) level. If needed, adjust it with sand.

To make the waterfall, invert the flower pot and thread the tubing through the hole in its bottom. Put the pot, still inverted, on the ground in the mdidle of what the rock waterfall structure will be. Build a staggered rock wall, laying a large, flat rock in the front, the building above it. Use it as a shelf to build the spillway, a bit hanging over.

Build until you reach the height you’re looking for. When you’re done, put 2 longer stones across the top to span the walls, which will keep the tubing in place. Pull up the tubing to gain more length, if necessary, and gently sandwich the tubing in between these 2 longer rocks to hold it in place.

The spillway rock should come out over the pond further than the shelf rock. Elevate the spillway rock in the back so there is water run-off. Bend the end of the tubing down towards the pond and put one or more stones on it that will hide it. Make sure it rests on the rocks so the tubing doesn’t get smushed.

Position the second spillway rock on top of the first one, elevating that one also. Make sure the tubing is still in a good spot.

Now you can fill the pond with water. Just plug in the pump’s cord, and test the flow. Here is where you can adjust to make sure everything works well. You’ll also want to make sure there isn’t too much splashing, which will lead to water waste.

Enjoy!

To attract the right birds in autumn, you need to get the right food, water and shelter opportunities for them.

Food

Bird feeders give migrating birds a convenient (and delicious!) spot to fuel up while in flight on their journey. It’s important to offer high-fat foods that help replenish their energy. It is a popular myth that having bird feeders stay in the fall will stop birds from migrating, and increasing their chance of a cold winter death. But the reality is that giving them the proper fuel is the most important. Opt for suet, black oil sunflower seed and nyjer. Spread around trees and shrubs with berries or fruits, giving them additional nutrients.

Water

Since in the autumn many streams and natural water sources dry up from the hot summer days, providing fresh, clean water in a bird bath will attract autumn birds and give them what they need. We recommend adding a bubbler or dripper, which will keep the water moving and make noise to attract birds from a wider range. Once it gets a little chillier, add a heater or use a heated bird bath to avoid potential overnight freezes. As well, keep the bird bath free of leaves and debris so it will attract the greatest number of birds.

Shelter

Whether they’re simply passing through on migration or they’re establishing a new winter territory, birds will need a place to rest. Be sure to leave up bird houses and use fall prunings to build them a brush pile. If you’re doing some planting, opt for evergreen shrubs and trees, which will provide shelter for birds in every season. These are also an attractive autumn tree that will look great in the colder months, as they maintain their leaves.

A good outdoor kitchens can be an effective extension of the owner’s interior kitchen. Ovens, including brick ovens, refrigerators, sinks, preparation areas, bars, and storage space are the key elements of cooking in the outdoors.

These outdoor kitchens bring together the house and landscape. Design-wise, the building materials and appliances should align with the kitchen indoors.

Include items that would not be used outdoors, such as a grill, outdoor pizza oven, or open-flame cooking range. Certain appliances, sinks, bars, and storage will help to create full and usable spaces outside, so you can prepare the meal without heading inside. The outdoor kitchen should work by itself, or alongside the indoor one. But really, you shouldn’t have to head inside.

When creating the design, start with a scheme related to similar colors, styles and personal preferences. Often, this is stemmed from the home’s interior. Design it based on how you think you’ll use it.

Material-wise, weathered stone and wood, granite, bright fabrics, and artwork will bring everything together once you have the functionality down pat.

The advantage of having an outdoor kitchen is having the flexibility of entertaining friends and family in outdoor settings, which is great for large gatherings or enjoying warmer weather, especially all year round in beautiful Victoria. The right balance of form and function is the perfect starting point for the essential outdoor space.

Another reason why folks are building outdoor kitchens is because they are busy. Often, outdoor cooking is quicker with less clean up, and you can spend some time in the fresh air while saving time, too.

According to many experts, the cost of building outdoor kitchens often sells homes faster, and add to the value of your home, too. So if you’re thinking of moving, perhaps plan to have that renovation outside rather than in.

Even if you aren’t looking to sell, having an outdoor kitchen is still a good investment.You’re using less energy, you’re not heating up the indoors, and you have a space and larger extension of your home.

The cost of a typical installation would start at about $12,000 – $15,000, but the more you add, the more you can add to that figure. You might be able to cut costs if you’re really handy, but try to get an experienced designer  involved in the project. Most of the construction requires the knowledge of a licensed professional. Keep in mind that you’ll have to run gas lines and install electrical outlets, and doing them incorrectly will cause problems later on.

For  homeowners looking to hire someone, check with others who have had similar work done. Ask for references, licenses and photos of previous projects before committing, and double check time lines. A good contractor will discuss ideas, and clear it with past people for you to visit their homes. Always look for multiple references.

Landscaping-wise, the addition of plant material will strengthen the overall look and go together with the theme. Luckily, our folks at Cultivate Landscaping in Victoria will have you covered.

Visit Capital Iron in Victoria, BC for more outdoor kitchen planning from the experts!

Speaking of weeding, you don’t want to spend time getting rid of all of the weeds next year. Instead of putting it off, just do it now. The fall in Victoria is the perfect time of to rid the weeds because they are easiest to control. The cooler temperatures also make herbicide more effective, as it moves the sugars down to the roots.

We want to keep the roots in the best possible condition, so watering the shrubs and perennials is key, especially if the fall is on the dry side. This will help protect them from moisture depletion in the winter. Take special care of any shrubs that are next to the house foundation. They need to be the most moisturized before the freezing winter hits.

If you want some pretty flowers during this month, opt for mums. The mum is one of the key flowers associated with the season because it works well in the winter months It comes in a large array of different colours, and they’ll come back next year if properly taken care of. Go to an outdoor garden centre in Victoria, as opposed to a florist, for ones that you’ll know will thrive through the harsher weather conditions.

The aster is another perennial that works well alongside mums. They are perfect for playing a role in the garden because they likely bloom before the frost hits. They are colourful and vibrant, and work well in borders, providing much needed help to the garden.

And if you need another choice, the pansy is a great option. Long after all of the other garden ingredients succumb to the cold weather, the pansy will stick around in happiness. It will also be the first one to come back in the spring. Pansies come in a wide variety of colours, such as orange, gold, purple, and black — all of which are perfect for fall. They also have two-year life cycles, and do well as harsh cold winters and very sunny spots.

Before You Buy

Before you go and purchase your mower, make sure you know the details to tell the folks at the store.

• How large is your lawn?
• Do you have plenty of trees, gardens, flower beds, pools, et cetera?
• Are there any steep grades?
• How dense is your grass?
• How is the air pollution?
• Are you in an area with loads of animals? Do you have any of your own?
• Are there any municipal guidelines?
• How much do you want to spend?

What to Look For

Regardless of the kind that you buy, these options are what to keep in mind when you buy.

• A good mower should both bag and mulch.
• The longer the deck, the longer the blade, the faster you mow.
• Aluminum and plastic decks don’t rust, but steel will last you longer.
• Push-mowers are between 6 and 10 horsepower. Riding mowers are between 12 and 18. Because the costs are great, pay for what you need.

Self-Propelled Mowers

Self-propelled mowers are best if your yard is large or steep. Choose a mower with adjustable speeds, along with a blade-brake clutch that won’t shut off if you let it go. These cost a bit more than most walk-behind mowers; they range from $500 to about $900.

Push Mowers

Push mowers are best for small lawns that are relatively level. They are cheap, easy to use, but require a little more strength. Simpler  than self-propelled mowers, they hardly break down and only cost about about $150.

Electric Mowers

Electric mowers are quiet, good for the environment, and flip on with ease. However, they often are plugged in, which can be dangerous and inconvenient.Cordless versions  run on rechargeable batteries, and last about an hour. You can purchase one for about $200, however, having an extra battery is key.

Reel Mowers

Reel mowers have no engine, are great for the environment, and very quiet. They also cut closely so you don’t have to mow frequently. Excellent quality reel mowers are about $100 to $200.

Riding Mowers

Large lawns need a riding mower. The cutting blades are in the front (unlike tractors). They cost in the ballpark of  $1000 to $9000. High-end riding mowers are almost like cars for the lawn, coming with extras such as cup holders, CD players, cruise control, and sun shades.

Image courtesy of superiorlawn-kc.com